‘Every Chef Must Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Food Spots.

When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.

Bobby Rich
Bobby Rich

A digital strategist and creative director with over a decade of experience in tech innovation and design thinking.